El Toro Loco: Revisited

The day is Jan. 7, 2010. It is noon. A dish of Dos Burritos Compadres awaits my palate. I always allow for the opportunity to absolve person and business. I absolve thee, Toro Loco.

The flavor was really quite decent. The salt level was very well balanced. The presentation was deliberate, unrushed- a small pile of shredded cheese topped one half of the two burritos, fresh looking, tasting lettuce and a single tomato slice topped the other half. Beneath, it had been drizzled in a tempered blend of sauce and melted cheese, soaking the burritos they covered.


Pros: A bang for the buck. Seven dollars will leave you satisfied. If you are seeking smaller servings, try Can Can.

The chicken had been well cooked, lightly salted, string possibly by hand (strenuous work if you’ve ever done it). Additionally, it was juicy, not dry as you may find in other places. Leaving it unseasoned allowed us to taste the natural flavor of the chicken, allowing a second to brush it in the sauce created a different flavor, a different sensation, nevertheless pleasant to the taste.
The amount of sauce and cheese was well balanced with the rest of the meal. This had been a major drawback in my previous experience. Today the chef had felt better about himself, the day, the world, and it was all well balanced in the plate.

Service: Beautiful service. Very gentle, very timely, very attentive. Did not press, did not push, did not appear to loom… Offered water when cups were low, asked if anything else was needed and did not pursue when answered,’no’. They understood that business day lunches bring in busy people and promptly brought the check. Leaving was no fuss.

Cons: The beef was good, but could have been excellent if it had been seasoned a little more generously: A tiny bit more cayenne pepper (enough to let the tongue tip know of its presence, without offending its sensitivity), a little more garlic powder (or crushed garlic would work better), a little cumin (comino), and perhaps the tiniest twist of a lemon! All these would have brought to mind the authentic carne molida of latin America; would have danced in your mouth with greater passion.

One word: Cilantro!!! Even if it is just used to decorate the plate there should be some sign of its existence! I think I tasted some in the chip salsa, but I am not sure. I don’t seek ingredients in food with my eyes; I let my tongue do the seeing! And I have to tell you, I did not see enough cilantro! One tight handful (three tight handfuls in one Kroger bunch- 99 cents) might add 10 cents to the overall price but would make such a huge difference in what we taste!